Lightweight	Notched	Wedgemount

Overview

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Lightweight
(#1666)

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Technical Details

I acquired my Brasovia Lightweight from Brasovia in 2009.

The Brasovia Lightweight is forged from aluminum alloy and soft anodized. It has two slots and a plastic-covered cable keeper. Mine is 55 mm. tall, 46 mm. wide, 109 mm. thick, and weighs 56 g. The slots are 35 mm. long and 16 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 7 mm. below the ends of the slots.

One side of my Lightweight is marked "BRASOVIA and "8-11mm."

Comments

The following closely-related belay tubes include the Brasovia Lightweight as an example:

Image Device Keeper High-end Notch Anpen Cable U Brasovia Lightweight Cable U Climb Axe Max Cable U Climb X, Version A Cable U Clog Flyer, Version A Rod V Clog Flyer, Version B Rod V	Image Device Keeper High-end Notch Ellis Brigham Climb Rod V GrandWall Cable U I Climb (元鴻興有限公司) #652 Cable U Kailas Cable U Kong Chuy #940 Cable U Mad Rock Max Air Cable U	Image Device Keeper High-end Notch Ocùn Tuber, Version A Cable U Ocùn Tuber, Version B Cable U Rock Empire Guard Cable U Unknown Rod V Simond Tubik Cable U

Each of these is 55±1 mm. long and 47±1 mm. wide, and has a weight in the 54±3 g. range. Their slots are all 35±1 mm. long and 16 mm. wide. The main differences are that most have cable keepers and U-shaped notches on both ends, but some have rod keepers and V-shaped notches on the high end.

These have several distinctive features, but overall, perform like most devices of this type. The rope slots are hour-glass shaped, but this does not appear to affect their performance. They are slightly asymmetrical with a high and a low end, giving two distinct riggings. One would expect a difference in friction for the two riggings, with more friction if the braking line runs over the shorter end; however, I do not notice much difference.

Most of these have shallow U-notches at both ends. The Clog Flyer, Ellis Brigham Climb and Unknown have V-notches at the high end, so I call these notched belay tubes. The V-notches are not as tall and acute as those on the Trango Jaws and its equivalents, so they do not provide as much braking. The U-notches on the others are are too shallow to noticeably amplify braking.

I prefer the ones with the rigid rod keeper. For the others, the plastic-coated cable keeper is moderately flexible, but stiff enough that it tends to stay out from under the rope.

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Notched
(#1667)

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Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Brasovia Notched from Brasovia in 2009.

The Brasovia Notched is a notched belay tube. It is forged from aluminum alloy and soft anodized. It has two slots with ribbed v-grooves and a plastic-covered cable keeper. Mine is 44 mm. long, 55 mm. wide, 107 mm. high, and weighs 64 g. The slots are 35 mm. long and 16 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 13 mm. below the ends of the slots.

One side is marked "BRASOVIA and "8-11mm."

Comments

The Brasovia is one of the following essentially identical notched belay tubes:

Image Device Base Brasovia Notched Flat Climb Axe V-LOK Recessed Climb Tech Flat Cypher XF Flat Elliot Flat Epic Peak Flat	Image Device Base Fusion Neo-Sat Flat Geelife Flat Good Makings Notched Flat Kong Chuy #940000 Flat GM Climbing Flat Lixada Flat	Image Device Base NAT Flat NTR Flat Stubai BC PRO Flat Triwonder Flat Tupa Flat Yoke Flat

Each of these is 54±1 mm. long and 45±1 mm. wide, and has a weight in the 60±7 g. range. Their slots are all 35 mm. long and 16 mm. wide.

The shallow V-notches used in this design do not seem to be very effective at increasing the braking force. The notches do not have the narrow angle found on the Trango Jaws and its equivalents, so they do not create the same wedging action. Spreading the friction helps with heat dissipation, but like all belay tubes, these can get quite hot when used for rappelling.

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Wedgemount
(#1772)

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Left	Right	Bottom

Technical Details

I acquired my Brasovia Wedgemount from Brasovia in 2012.

The Brasovia Wedgemount is a belay tube. It is It is forged from aluminum alloy and soft anodized. It has 2 slots and a plastic-covered cable keeper. The slots are 33 mm. long and 14 mm. wide. The top of the Omega oval carabiner that I use for comparing belay tubes sits 16 mm. below the ends of the slots. My wedgemount is 46 mm. long, 52 mm. wide, 99 mm. high, and weighs 61 g.

One side is labeled "Brasovia."

Comments

The Brasovia Wedgemount is one of the following closely-related belay tubes, all called "ATCs" after the original Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller:

Image Device Shell Style Keeper Advanced Base Camp Advanced Rope Controller, Version A I 3.7 mm. Advanced Base Camp Advanced Rope Controller, Version B I 4.7 mm. Advanced Base Camp Advanced Rope Controller, Rigid III 4.7 mm. AustriAlpin, Version A I 3.7 mm. AustriAlpin, Version B III 3.7 mm. Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, Version A I 3.7 mm. Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, Version B I 3.1 mm. Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, Version C IV 4.7 mm.	Image Device Shell Style Keeper Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, Version D IV 4.7 mm. Brasovia Wedgemount II 4.0 mm. Camp, Version B II 4.0 mm. Camp Shell, Version A I 3.7 mm. Camp Shell, Version B II 3.7 mm. Climb X Max-Air II 4.0 mm. Climbing Technology Double III 3.7 mm. Cypher Arc, Version A I 3.7 mm.	Image Device Shell Style Keeper Cypher Arc, Version B III 5.2 mm. Fusion I 3.7 mm. Good Makings II 4.0 mm. GrandWall Wedgemount II 4.0 mm. Singing Rock I 3.7 mm. Stubai, Version A I 3.7 mm. Stubai BC III 3.7 mm. Zero-G G-Spot I 3.7 mm.

Each of these is 54±3 mm. long, 46±1 mm. wide, and weighs 59±9 g. Their slots are all 32±1 mm. long and 14±1 mm. wide. They all have plastic-covered cable keepers.

The Black Diamond ATC was the first of these to appear, by many years. The basic design evolved and similar devices appeared from others.

The ATC is a lightweight, popular belaying device among climbers. Rigging is simple: insert a bight of rope and clip it with a suitably anchored carabiner, making sure that the rope is not running over the keeper. Two-rope rigging is similar. On thinner ropes, adding another carabiner helps.

My biggest complaint is that none of these give me enough friction when rappelling with a heavy load on fast 9 mm. rope. I also prefer more friction while belaying, unless my partner is particularly lightweight. For these reasons, I prefer using a Trango Jaws or one of its equivalents.

Any of these will overheat badly on long rappels. Overheating is not an issue when belaying, but can be a concern when lowering someone more than a short distance.

There are four different shell styles in use::

1. There is a small shelf at each end of the shell with a hole passing through it. The keeper cable has a crimp at the ends, which are visible from the top of the device.
2. There is a small shelf at each end of the shell with a blind hole in the bottom. The keeper cable enters the holes, and is staked in place. The stake dimples are visible at the ends of the device.
3. There is a bulge at each end of the shell with a blind hole in the bottom. The keeper cable enters the holes, and is staked in place. The stake dimples are visible at the ends of the device.
4. Like style III, but the shell has a shallow valley above the bulge.

The differences between the styles are cosmetic rather than functional.

None of the keepers-to-shell are strong enough to support body weight, so don't be stupid enough to rely on a keeper to protect you.

There are also several different diameter keeper cables used on these. Cable keepers are a compromise between a cord that stows easily but tends to get tangled in use, and a rigid rod that stands up to the rope running over it (by accident, of course). I prefer a stiff keeper, but any of these are stiff enough to be used without significant problems.

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