Scream	Shuttle

Overview

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Scream
(#2796)

Top	Bottom	Side

Technical Details

I acquired my Grivel Scream from Jay Shifferdecker in 2020.

The Grivel Scream is a sticht-type belay plate. It is forged from "light alloy" and then clear anodized. Mine is 44 mm. long, 95 mm. wide, 11 mm. high, and weighs 45 g. It has two slots that are 38 mm. long. The slots are tapered, with the wide end having an 11.5 mm. radius and the narrow 0nly 4.5 mm. each eye is 19.8 mm. by 15.0 mm, with the one on the wide end oriented transversely and the other longitudinally. There are three ribs on the bottom, each 34 mm. long and 4.5 mm. high. There are also two curved ribs on the top near the small end of the slots. These are 1.8 mm. tall

The top is printed with "EN15151-2:2012," "UIAA," "129," "CE," "0123," a rigging illustration, "ROPE 5≤Ø≤8," and a book-with-an-"i" icon. The bottom is printed with "↔ 30 kN," "GRIVEL," "SCREAM," a factory icon, and 2019/17.

Comments

The Grivel Scream is designed to be used primarily as a guide’s top-rope belay device used in belaying from an anchor with an auto-block rigging. A secondary use of the Scream is as a descender, where an auxiliary carabiner acts as a brake bar.

The Scream is designed for 5 to 8 mm. rope, and these are not common diameters for caving or climbing rope. The instructions show the Scream being used for single-rope belaying. EN15151-2:2012 defines static strength requirements for the device, but what concerns me are the ropes that this device will accommodate. According to EN 892:2012, the dynamic load single ropes are allowed to generate during a fall is 12 kN. I am not familiar with any ropes in the 5-8 mm. range that would survive such loads. I'm also concerned about people unwittingly trying to use the Scream with climber’s accessory cord. The minimal allowed tensile strength for 7 mm. and smaller accessory are less than 12 kN, and for 8 mm. cord it is only 12.8 kn - inadequate margin, in my opinion.

I do not recommend the Scream for typical recreational rock climbing or caving applications.

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Shuttle
(#1869)

Top	Bottom	Side

Technical Details

I acquired one Grivel Shuttle from Sunny Sports in 2015, and Robert Brock gave me another in 2016.

The Grivel Shuttle is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 87 mm. long, 125 mm. wide, 17 mm. high, and weighs 86 g. It has a slight longitudinal bend that accounts for 2 mm. of the thickness; without counting the bend, the metal is 15 mm. thick. It has two 12 mm. wide slots that are 52 mm. long, three 19 mm. round holes, and a 32 mm. by 20 mm. subtrapezoidal eye.

The convex side is printed with "Ø7.3 - Ø11.0," "CE0123," a book-with-an-"i" icon, "09-13,"◀ ▶" over "25KN," "EN 795B-2012-1," a human icon, "EN15151-2:2012," "EN 16415-2012-3," another human icon, "UIAA129-5:2012P," and "SHUTTLE." The one that I got from Sunny Sports also has a printed rigging illustration. The concave side has "GRIVEL" in forged raised letters.

Comments

The Shuttle is a large device and I would not recommend it if your only application is belaying. The extra holes give the Shuttle the capability of being used as a rigging plate, and they also facilitate some forms of belaying encountered in guiding. If your application benefits from these features, the Shuttle, like the Kong Full, is product that provides them.

The two slots are longer than those on standard "Sticht" plates and give less friction than standard "Sticht" plates do. The slot length is closer to that of various guide devices such as the Kong Gi–gi, and Cassin #217.

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