Misc. Belay: Bassett Metal Studios Nano


Nano–Belay Prototype 1	Nano–Belay Prototype 2	Nano–Belay Prototype 3	Nano–Belay Prototype 4	Nano–Belay Prototype 5


Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 1	Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 2	Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 3	Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 4	Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 5


Production Nano–Belay	Production Nano–Unloader

Overview

Nano–Belay Prototype 1
(#741, 3845)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

Bar Spring I acquired my Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Belay Prototype from Bassett Metal Studios in 2000. Carroll Bassett gave me another in 2023.

This prototype consists of three 45 mm. long, 22 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on 8.1 mm. 304 stainless steel side rails. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. The middle bar has a unique internal spring that acts as a bar latch. This prototype is 227 mm. long, 45 mm. wide, 24 mm. thick, and weighs 382 g.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

At the 2000 Old Timer’s Reunion, Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype Nano–belay device to test. I didn't get much testing in before leaving to work in Europe for a few months. By the time I was able to test it well, Carroll had already made changes to address the main weakness.

The Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Belay is normally used at the top of a drop, above the load being belayed. The device works like an inverted J-bar, not like an inverted rack. The load rope comes up and over the top of the bar closest to the anchor, then winds through the other bars and into the belayer’s hands. When catching a load, the weight forces the bars together, greatly amplifying the friction. I find the belaying action to be quite instinctive. Heavy loads are easily held. Releasing the load is another matter. With the bars squeezed together under load, it is nearly impossible to separate them and release the load. This problem was solved in the production model with the addition of the Nano–Unloader.

I like the "feel" of the brake bar latch - although it won't support load, it does provide a definite closure and resists accidental opening under most circumstances.

Some people may be bothered by the two nuts that hold the bars on. They don't look strong enough, but any engineer will understand that the nuts are essentially as strong as the rod itself. I certainly don't worry about them. Carroll has done some destructive testing and the strength of the Nano–belay is quite impressive. Carroll does suggest retiring the device if it ever bends after a hard fall - I recommend the same for any product.

Nano–Belay Prototype 2
(#3846)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype consists of three 45 mm. long, 22 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on 8.1 mm. 304 stainless steel side rails. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. This prototype is 188 mm. long, 45 mm. wide, 24 mm. thick, and weighs 382 g.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

This prototype is shorter than the previous one, and lacks the internal spring in the second bar position

Nano–Belay Prototype 3
(#3847)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype consists of three 63 mm. long, 25 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on 9.5 mm. 304 stainless steel side rails. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. This prototype is 221 mm. long, 63 mm. wide, 25 mm. thick, and weighs 556 g.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

This prototype has longer bars and larger frame bars than the previous ones. The larger frame provides unnecessary extra strength and the wider bars allow using oversize ropes, two features that should please the Bigger-is-Better crowd.

The cord was tied to help release loads, but it is nearly impossible to separate the bars to release a heavy load without something else to provide a mechanical advantage.

Nano–Belay Prototype 4
(#3848)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype consists of three 22 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on an 8.1 mm. 304 stainless steel side rails. Two bars are 45 mm. long and the third is 64 mm. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. The bar middle bar has a unique internal spring that acts as a bar latch. This prototype is 230 mm. long, 64 mm. wide, 24 mm. thick, and weighs 404 g.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

The longer third bar gives the user a better grip than the sort bar on the first two prototypes, but releasing a heavy load is still next to impossible.

Nano–Belay Prototype 5
(#3849)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype consists of three 25 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on a welded 9.5 mm. 304 stainless steel frame. Two bars are 50 mm. long and the third is 64 mm. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. This prototype is 269 mm. long, 64 mm. wide, 25 mm. thick, and weighs 569 g.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

When developing the Nano–Unloader, Carroll realized that the teardrop eyes on the previous prototypes did not work well with the hook on the Nano–Unloader. This frame has a crossbar that works well with the hook. Unfortunately, the closed one-piece frame makes rigging difficult because the rope must pass between the third bar and the crossbar to get the J-Bar power-brakes effect.

The notches in the long bar accept the Nano–Belayer claw. Compared to the beveled bars used on the production Nano–Belay, the notched bar provide a more positive but less convenient means of attaching a Nano–Belayer to the bar.

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 1
(#3850)


Front View, Running	Front View, Braking	Rear View


Side View, Running	Side View, Braking

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Belay /w Unloader prototype is 356 mm. long, 82 mm. wide, 59 mm. thick, and weighs 948 g.

The Belay portion has three 25 mm. diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on a welded 9.5 mm. 304 stainless steel frame. Two bars are 50 mm. long and the third is 64 mm. with beveled ends to allow attaching the Nano–Unloader claw. The rails pass through holes in the bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open.

The Unloader portion consists of a 304 stainless steel lever pivoting on a connecting arm that is bolted to a block welded to the frame. The inner end of the arm is attached to a pivoting claw that pulls on the long brake bar. A rubbery ball caps the lever. Pulling the lever separates the brake bars, reducing friction.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

This prototype mounts an early Nano–Unloader on an early Nano–Belay. The Nano–Belay is normally used at the top of a drop, above the load being belayed. The device works like an inverted J-bar, not like an inverted rack. When catching a load, the weight forces the bars together, greatly amplifying the friction. The Nano–Unloader facilitates lowering operations Pushing the lever pulls the bars apart, allowing the load to descend. Let go, and the load will stop. Power brakes!

Once assembled, The closed one-piece frame makes rigging difficult. A pivoting third bar would not fully solve the problem because the rope must pass between the third bar and the crossbar to get the J-Bar power-brakes effect.

The Unloader cannot be released from the long bar without removing the bolt connecting the unloader assembly to the frame. There should be no need to do this unless one wants to replace the brake bars.

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 2
(#3851)


Front View, Handle Retracted	Front View, Handle Extended	Rear View


Side View, Running	Side View, Braking

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype is 267 mm. long, 83 mm. wide, 75 mm. thick, and weighs 913 g.

This prototype has a sliding handle that can be extended to provide more leverage or retracted for storage. The red ball is hard plastic.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

The description and comments for the previous Nano–Belay /w Unloader prototype generally apply to this prototype as well. The collapsible handle is a nice improvement.

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 3
(#3852)


Front View	Rear View


Side View, Running	Side View, Braking

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype is 280 mm. long, 103 mm. wide, 90 mm. thick, and weighs 1033 g.

This prototype has 25 mm. bars. The first bar is a 102 mm -long dual hyperbar, the second is 15 mm. long, and the third is a 64 mm. beveled bar.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

The dual hyperbar is the only functional difference between this prototype and the previous one. I don't see a need for a hyperbar on a Nano–Belayer with Unloader. They hold loads well without being tied off, the version without the hyperbar can also be tied off, and there are other (often better) options in most situations where people tie devices off. The hyperbar does not work as well with the rest of the device as it does with, say, a rack. To each their own.

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 4
(#3853)


Front View	Rear View	Unloader Removed


Side View, Running	Side View, Braking

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype is 280 mm. long, 103 mm. wide, 90 mm. thick, and weighs 1033 g.

This prototype is similar to the first two except the hand lever has been replaced with a lever terminating in a 15 mm. wide. 26 mm. high tear-drop eye.

There are no markings on this prototype.

Comments

Carroll wanted to see if a Nano–Belayer with Unloader could be used for self-lowering while practicing rope ascending. Pulling on a cord attached to the Unloader would lower the climber, but required letting that cord slide through one's hands. He decided that the idea was not particularly practical.

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 5
(#3854)


Front View	Rear View


Side View, Running	Side View, Braking

Technical Details

Carroll Bassett gave me this prototype BMS Nano–Belay in 2023.

This prototype is 250 mm. long, 83 mm. wide, 72 mm. thick, and weighs 826 g.

This prototype has 25 mm. bars. The first bar is a 102 mm -long dual hyperbar, the second is 15 mm. long, and the third is a 64 mm. beveled bar.

The Unloader is connected to the Belayer frame with a 6.3 mm quick-release pin

The quick-release pin is printed with "Jergens," "800618," "C481.05," "–PUSH–," and 294612."

Comments

The quick-release pin allows separating the Unloader from the Belayer. I don't see a real advantage to being able to do this, other than a slight reduction in bulk for storage and transport. The production Nano–Belay and Nano–Unloader discussed later also allow separation, and do so in a superior way that allows rigging the rope without needing the free end.

Production Nano–Belay
(#762)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

I acquired my Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Belay from Karst Sports in 2001.

The production model consists of two 44.4 mm. long, 22 mm. diameter and one 63.5 mm, same diameter 304 stainless steel tubular brake bars mounted on 8.1 mm. 304 stainless steel side rails. The third bar has tapered ends that narrow toward the top of the bar. The rails pass through holes in the first and third bars, which are free to slide, but do not pivot to open. The middle bar is slotted on one side. The bar middle bar has a unique internal spring that acts as a bar latch. The anchor eyes are 40.4 mm. long and 16.6 mm. wide. My production model is 246 mm. long, 64 mm. wide, 24 mm. thick, and weighs 426 g.

There are no markings on the production model.

Comments

I acquired my production-model Nano–Belay at the 2001 NSS Convention. There are two improvements over the prototype. First, the eyes are larger and oval-shaped, which provides room for using the Nano–Unloader. The second improvement is that the longer, tapered bar on the eye side. This makes it easier to grab, so separating the bars is not as difficult as on the prototype. The tapered bar also accepts the Nano–Unloader.

The Nano–Belay and Nano Unloader combination received U.S. Patent #9,119,978 in 2015.

Production Nano–Unloader
(#763)


Front View	Rear View	Side View

Technical Details

I acquired my Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Unloader from Karst Sports at the 2001 NSS Convention.

My Nano–Unloader is 83 mm. long, 267 mm. wide, 50 mm. thick, and weighs 270 g.

The Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Unloader is designed for use with the Nano–Belay. The Nano–Unloader consists of a 207 mm. long, 13.7 mm. diameter, 2.2 mm. wall 304 stainless steel lever with two pairs of pivoting 2.9 mm. 304 stainless steel hooks attached by 5.9 mm. 304 stainless steel pins held in place by cotter pins. One pair of hooks is narrow, and engages the anchor eye of the Nano–Belay. The other pair is wide, and engages the long tapered bar. Pulling the lever separates the brake bars, reducing friction.

There are no markings on my Nano–Unloader.

Comments

Even with the tapered bar, the Nano–Belay is difficult to release. The Nano–Unloader solves this problem. The Nano–Unloader is a lever-actuated device designed to pull the long bar toward the anchor eyes. I had the opportunity to play with the Nano–Unloader at the 2001 NSS Convention, where I used it to lower people who were learning to use ascenders on a fixed rope. They would climb, then I’d lower them with the Nano–Unloader. My overall impression was that it worked quite well. The action was a bit sensitive, but with minimal practice it was easy to control the descent. I did notice that the Nano–Belay got quite hot - no surprise, considering it’s small mass, stainless-steel construction and the large rope angle over the top bar - so I don't recommend lowering heavy loads long distances.

The Nano–Belay and Nano Unloader combination received U.S. Patent #9,119,978 in 2015.

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Bassett Metal Studios Nano–Belay

Overview

Nano–Belay Prototype 1 (#741, 3845)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay Prototype 2 (#3846)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay Prototype 3 (#3847)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay Prototype 4 (#3848)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay Prototype 5 (#3849)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 1 (#3850)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 2(#3851)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 3 (#3852)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 4 (#3853)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 5 (#3854)

Technical Details

Comments

Production Nano–Belay(#762)

Technical Details

Comments

Production Nano–Unloader(#763)

Technical Details

Comments

Nano–Belay Prototype 1
(#741, 3845)

Nano–Belay Prototype 2
(#3846)

Nano–Belay Prototype 3
(#3847)

Nano–Belay Prototype 4
(#3848)

Nano–Belay Prototype 5
(#3849)

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 1
(#3850)

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 2
(#3851)

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 3
(#3852)

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 4
(#3853)

Nano–Belay /w Unloader Prototype 5
(#3854)

Production Nano–Belay
(#762)

Production Nano–Unloader
(#763)