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Unknown 11

Version A

Version B

Version C

Version D

Version E

Version A Version B
Version A Version B
 
Version C Version D Version E
Version C Version D Version E

Overview


Version A
(#1610)

Front View Top View Bottom View
Front View Top View Bottom View

Technical Details

I bought this belay plate on eBay in 2008.

Version A is 67 mm. long, 38 mm. wide, 87 mm. high (including the wire), and weighs 45 g. The plate is made from 9.6 mm. thick aluminum alloy. It has a single slot that is 33 mm. long and 16 mm. wide. Two 6.5 mm. holes provide an attachment point for a 1.7 mm. stainless steel cable keeper. The cable is crimped in place, and short lengths of red shrink tubing cover the crimps.

There are no markings on this plate.

Comments

The seller provided the following information in the item description:

Up for your consideration is this gently USED Rock Climbing Belay Plate/Device/Gear/Equipment. This item is rather unique because before the manufacturer came out with the one they eventually put on the market, they made this one. It DOES NOT have the maker’s mark but their reputation for manufacturing top quality climbing + belay + rappelling + aid devices/gear/equipment is long standing. The owner of this item was once an avid extreme climber who associated with this well known (and highly regarded) manufacturer. And to respect their rights to privacy, we will disclose no more. This item is lightweight, sturdy, very well made--STILL HAS LOTS OF LIFE LEFT IN IT.

The seller used exactly the same words for both the Version A and Version B plates. Neither plate showed signs of having been used. The seller was unwilling to provide any supporting information whatsoever, even confidentially. The seller asked that I not reveal their name or that they were selling on eBay.

This was all rather mysterious and I'm not sure whether we should believe any of this or not. Whatever its true history, it is well made and I would certainly be willing to use it in the field.


Version B
(#1605)

Front View Top View Bottom View
Front View Top View Bottom View

Technical Details

I bought this belay plate on eBay in 2008.

Version B is 67 mm. long, 39 mm. wide, 75 mm. high (including the wire), and weighs 46 g. The plate is made from 9.6 mm. thick aluminum alloy. It has a single slot that is 33 mm. long and 16 mm. wide. Two 2.7 mm. holes provide an attachment point for a 1.7 mm. stainless steel cable keeper. The cable is crimped in place, and a single length of yellow shrink tubing covers the crimps and the cable between them.

Comments

I acquired Version B about six weeks before Version A, but Version B looks like a more refined design, so I'm guessing that it is the latter of the two.

The seller provided the following information in the item description:

Up for your consideration is this gently USED Rock Climbing Belay Plate/Device/Gear/Equipment. This item is rather unique because before the manufacturer came out with the one they eventually put on the market, they made this one. It DOES NOT have the maker’s mark but their reputation for manufacturing top quality climbing + belay + rappelling + aid devices/gear/equipment is long standing. The owner of this item was once an avid extreme climber who associated with this well known (and highly regarded) manufacturer. And to respect their rights to privacy, we will disclose no more. This item is lightweight, sturdy, very well made--STILL HAS LOTS OF LIFE LEFT IN IT.

The seller used exactly the same words for both the Version A and Version B plates. Neither plate showed signs of having been used. The seller was unwilling to provide any supporting information whatsoever, even confidentially. The seller asked that I not reveal their name or that they were selling on eBay.

This was all rather mysterious and I'm not sure whether we should believe any of this or not. Whatever its true history, it is well made and I would certainly be willing to use it in the field.


Version C
(#3715)

Top View Bottom View
Top View Bottom View

Technical Details

I acquired Version C on eBay from Ken Pritchard in 2022.

Version C is a an unfinished aluminum plate. Mine is 63 mm. long, 63 mm. wide, 10 mm. high, and weighs 69 g. It has one slot that is 28 mm. long.

There are no markings on this plate.

Comments

Version C appears to have been homemade and finished by hand, but if so, it was done well. The edges are crisp but not sharp. The slot is well-rounded, with enough unevenness to suggest that it was hand-finished. The ends of the slot are not semi-circular as one would expect if they had been cut with a milling machine.

The absence of a keeper cord hole is surprising, but a standard carabiner will for through the slot for carrying.


Version D
(#3822)

Top View Bottom View
Top View Bottom View

Technical Details

I acquired this belay plate from Vintage Climbing in 2022.

This is a sticht-type belay plate, milled from aluminum alloy. It is 54 mm. long, 35 mm. wide, 10 mm. thick, and weighs 43 g. It has one slot that is 32 mm. long.and 12 mm. wide. There is a 4.3 mm. keeper hole with a 500 mm. long parachute cord keeper with a snap hook sewn in place.

There are no markings on this plate

Comments

I do not know who made this plate, but it appears be home-made. It may have been made by the same person who made Unknown 9/11, Version B.

The keeper cord is far too long for my taste, being six or seven times as long as I prefer.


Version E
(#3859)

Top View Bottom View Side View
Top View Bottom View Side View

Technical Details

I acquired this plate from Repair Lair in 2023.

The Unknown 11 w/o spring, Version E is a sticht-type belay plate. It is ***milled al, unfinished, 1 slot***. Mine is 52 mm. long, 26 mm. wide, 13 mm. high, and weighs 33 g. It has one slot that is 32 mm. long.

This is a sticht-type belay plate, milled from aluminum alloy. It is 52 mm. long, 26 mm. wide, 13 mm. thick, and weighs 33 g. It has one slot that is 32 mm. long.and 12.7 mm. wide. There is a 6 mm. keeper hole at one end.

There are no markings on this plate

Comments

I do not know who made this plate, It is simple and anyone with a milling machine could easily have made this from 1/2" x 1" (12.7 x 25.4 mm.) aluminum bar stock. I believe that it was commercially made. I first saw one of these in a collection photo on SuperTopo in 2005. That one ended up in Marty Karabin's collection and can be seen at his display in Phoenix. He lists his as "unknown" as well.


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