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Skylotec Lory
(#3781)

 

Front Rear Side
Front Rear Side
 
Front: Open for Rigging Rear: Open for Rigging
Front: Open for Rigging Rear: Open for Rigging

Technical Details

I acquired my Skylotec Lory from FallProof Systems LLC in 2022.

The Lory is a shaped like a flattened and deformed avocado.

The Lory consists of four major components: the body, the rotating cam, a cover plate, and an actuating lever assembly.

The body and cover plate are forged from aluminum. Superficially, they are mirror images of each other, although there are some details where this symmetry breaks down. In other, more practical words, the front cover and rear body are roughly the same thickness, and the seam between the two splits the closed device in half. A 6.4 mm. stainless steel rivet joins the front and back near the top. Each piece has a cast stainless steel insert, and the inserts are shaped so that with the covers closed, the inserts form a groove for 10 mm. diameter rope.

The cam assembly pivots on a roughly 15 mm. stainless steel axle attached to the body. The attachment method is not clearly visible. A spring-loaded button protruding from the cam axle passes through a hole in the front plate when the cover is closed.

The bottom of the body and cover have aligned 18 mm. holes that form the attachment point. The body has a cast stainless steel anvil next to the hole. The anvil has a U-shaped groove for the rope to run over. The anvil and lever assembly are held by a 5 mm. stainless steel rivet.

The rotating cam is cast steel. It has a webbed design with several reinforcing ribs. The right side of the cam has a rounded V-shaped rope channel with about a 6 mm. minor diameter at the base of the V. The left side has two small grooves to provide a finger grip for feeding rope. The bottom of the cam has a flat area that squeezes the rope against the lower anvil when the cam rotates counter-clockwise (i.e., when it closes). A double-ended plunger assembly with of two spring-loaded balls is pressed into the top left corner of the cam assembly. The cam can be aligned so that the balls rest in detents in the body and cover plates, lightly holding the cam in a centered position.

The lever assembly consists of a control lever connected to the cam by a steel link. Pulling the lever downward forces the link upward, opening the cam; however, once the lever passes a certain point, the link disengages and the cam rotates closed again under rope tension. At this point, raising the lever opens the cam; but again, the action stops if the lever moves too far.

The cover is printed with "LORYPRO," a rigging anchor icon with a curved line to a hand icon showing the rope path, a book-with-an-"i" icon,"CE0123," "Inspect regularly," the Skylotec logo, "SKYLOTEC," "A-041," "Im Mühlengrund 6-8," "D-56566 Neuwled," "EN 12841-C," "10-12mm., 225kg," "EN 358," a curved double-ended arrow with the up-pointing left end labeled "press" and the right-pointing end labeled "& push," "262300–002," "EN 15151-1," "dyn Ø 8.9–11.0 mm," "stat Ø 9.0–12.0 mm," "EN341:2011/2A," "11mm 30-180kg," "H 190m,  Tmin -20°C", "EN 795-B:2012," and "single person use." The cam has a raised climber icon. The lower anvil has a molded hand-holding-a-rope icon.

Comments

The Lory is one of the following closely-related devices:

Image Device
Anthron Lory Anthron Lory
Image Device
Bornack Lory Bornack Lory
Image Device
Edelrid Eddy Edelrid Eddy
Image Device
Singing Rock Sir Rollgliss R250
 
Image Device
Singing Rock Sir Singing Rock Sir
Image Device
Skylotec Lory Skylotec Lory
Image Device
Skylotec Lory Pro Skylotec Lory Pro

The Slovenian company Anthron made the Anthron Lory, Bornack Lory, Edelrid Eddy, Rollgliss R250, and Singing Rock Sir. The German firm Skylotec bought Anthron in 2016 and continued production with the Skylotec Lory and Lory Pro.

Some of these were sold as belay devices, and the others as descenders. The belay device and descender versions are not the same. The difference is subtle, and easily overlooked. The belay versions have a double-ended plunger pressed into the cam. The cam can be aligned so that spring-loaded balls rest in detents in the body and cover plates, lightly holding the cam in a position that allows relatively free motion of a slack rope.

Belay Cam Descender Cam
Bornack Lory Skylotec Lory Pro

One would think that any of these could be used for either purpose, but Skylotec warns against this. They certified their Lory and Lory Pro to different standards. The lawyers have spoken, and I will not openly disagree (in the U.S.A., it is unwise to disagree with lawyers). Having tried both, I can say that the belay cam seems only slightly easier to use when belaying. With either cam, I could feed rope out easily by manually lifting the cam with an index finger. Taking rope in was even easier - I just pulled it through the device. I didn't notice any difference between the two cams when rappelling: rope tension easily overpowers the spring-loaded balls.

The Lory has excellent workmanship and it functions well. It is solid, but it is also quite heavy. This should not be a problem for gym climbers or people who drive to the base of short sport climbs, but I wouldn't consider lugging one of these to a remote climb or up a wall.

The lever function provides partial backup for the user not knowing how to use the lever, but like all such devices, it relies on the user being completely incompetent rather than partially incompetent. By definition, a partially incompetent belayer would drop me too fast without moving the lever past the release point. I'm not convinced that this sort of feature is an improvement on selecting a competent belayer - or not falling in the first place.

The lever action has a bizarre feature: once the user moves the lever past the release point, the lever function reverses. In other words, I would normally lower by pulling down on the lever, with farther down meaning a faster lower. If I pull too far, then the cam locks. At this point, I could resume lowering by pushing the lever up, with farther up meaning a faster lower. If I go to far again, the action reverses a second time, and the lever operates as it originally did. I do not like this behavior. I found that if I somehow pull the handle into the lower lock position, I could "slam" the handle upward to the upper locking position with a negligible drop, bypassing the reverse-acting behavior. Sort this out at home, not at the cliffs. I give this feature a lemon award: .

The lever assembly is greased. This grease will pick up sand and dirt. As an enclosed device, the Lory is not well-suited for use on severely mud-covered ropes.

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