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Stuart Marlatt developed a new ascending knot and brought it to my attention in late 2000. He wrote me as follows:
I thought you might be interested in a variation of the carabiner version of the helical knot (see Montgomery, SRT). I added a small loop to the base of the knot, which acts to compress the coils when rope is pulled through the knot, but allows the knot to function normally when motion is in the opposite direction. Sorry, no photos, but I have a small
write-up that I posted a few years back on rec.climbing. The attached ascii _should_ look ok, if you use a fixed-width font. Let me know if it gives you any problems.I've used this knot for years, for SRT on short, remote climbs where I don't want to pack ascenders, and for self-belayed top-rope climbs. Based as it is on the helical knot, getting the amount of slack in the knot is a bit tricky, but I've taken literally hundreds of falls on these knots with no failure. (I do tend to run a second rope and move a slack fig-8 along with me as a backup, but I've never had a fall end up hanging on the 2nd rope).
I've also used this a few times as the ratchet knot in a z-pulley. Not as nice as some other options, but it works hands-free.
He provided the following notes along with his ascii sketch (which I need not reproduce here):
This is a sliding hitch based on a helical knot; the addition of the extra loop at the base of the knot allows upward movement to loosen the knot, while downward movement (i.e. falling) results in the knot tightening normally. Tie and adjust the knot prior to use - you only need tie the knots once, thereafter simply clipping into a carabiner. In use, all three loops are clipped into a single, locking carabiner, which is attached to a seat harness. Anchor the rope at the top of the climb, and attach a weight to the bottom of the rope (a pack, or coil the rope such that it hangs free of the ground). A few comments:
- As in all climbing activities, your safety is a direct function of your judgment. Equipment is no substitute for sound judgment.
- Play with the knot in a safe setting prior to use in a life-dependent situation, so you can get a feel for how it works and ensure that it is tied ok.
- The knot works best on clean rope: mud or grit will prevent it from self-loosening, though it usually will still tighten well, except if very muddy.
- The knot may not tighten in an upside-down fall.
- As with any solo self-belay, it is highly recommended that a redundant system be used. In this case, clipping in periodically to a second rope provides an ideal backup.
- The knot will experience some wear during normal use; replace as needed.
- Carry prusiks or ascenders to allow you to escape the climb if necessary. The knot is very difficult to loosen while you are hanging on it.
- Climb safely and enjoy.
I don't have a lot to add to his comments. His comments on the knot being tricky to adjust are valid. Most important:
DON’T SOLO CLIMB!
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