Garda Knot

(a.k.a. Alpine Clutch)

The Garda Knot is a self-locking arrangement that allows the rope to be pulled through in one direction, but locks to keep the rope from returning in the opposite direction. The rope moves freely in the direction indicated, i.e., one pulls on the end that comes out between the two carabiners.

The carabiner gates should be on the same side because the knot rides down on the carabiner spines. The carabiner gates should be opposed for maximum security, provided the carabiners are symmetrical. With asymmetrical Ds, the gates should open toward the rope. Don't using locking carabiners because the ferrules may keep the carabiners far enough apart that they won't lock.

I never took the Garda Knot too seriously until I spent a week ice climbing with Andy Petefish. He likes the Garda, and convinced me that it is at least worth knowing. The Garda is temperamental, but useful if you can respect its limitations. The Garda has three primary uses:

1. The Garda Knot is most often used in hauling situations when a hauling pulley is not available. There is a lot of friction in the Garda Knot, so this works best with light loads.
2. The Garda Knot can also be used for belaying. This thought makes me cringe, since in a hard fall the two carabiners will pinch the rope severely. From a practical point of view, feeding the rope is more difficult than it is with, say, a Munter Hitch. I choose to use the Munter instead.
3. The Garda Knot can act as one emergency ascender in a sit-stand system. This works better than the old "wrap the rope around the foot" trick. The illustration shows the idea. (The drawing is from David Fasulo’s Self-Rescue, © 1996. This inexpensive book has some excellent advice and is well worth reading.) This works so nicely that it is a shame that only you can only use one Garda Knot.

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